New home, day 2

Day 2 of Woody's new home!

... someone just didn't want to work today ...

... and soon wanted to go home!

News

Well this has to be the slowest build ...

To begin with, it has turned out that I am hull 212, not 213 ...

Now, as mentioned on the forum, here are a couple of pix from the damage sustained on Woody (yes, I think we have a name!) a couple of weeks ago:

I just couldn't believe my luck when this happened (I won't go into the details again, trying to forget it) and on a couple of occasions was tempted to give up. Anyway, the damage is not as serious as it looks. And Woody is already getting a proper new home:

At last ...

... I am cutting!

The summer, the wind, obligations and some technical issues have all conspired against any progress in this build. But, I started cutting yesterday! And I am happy with the result!

I printed the plans out (life-size) and cut out the shapes. I started out by spraying along the plan edges to transfer the shapes on the panels but found out that, unless your cut out was super precise, the result would be unsatisfactory. So I left the plans on the panels (securely affixed) and started cutting with the jig-saw along the black line. That worked much better. Any corrections were made by fairing with the multimaster. To be continued next weekend!

Keel progress

I made a start on the keel last weekend. I used Iroko to make the core. I decided to follow the method on the Gougeon articles, the reason being that it provided instructions to the level of precision required by a novice boat builder like me. I first ripped the planks as seen on this pic:

I did not rip them all according to the maximum thickness of the keel for two reasons. First, I wanted to save some wood as I didn't have enough. Second, I thought it would save time planing it into shape. The problem is that these differences in thickness make it even more difficult to align the rips properly when gluing them together:

The leading and trailing edges are missing. The article suggests splitting them and gluing them back together with glass tape in between so as to have a guide as to where the centreline lies. This sounded very handy at first, but now I know that due the fact that the wood skews as soon as it is ripped and that I am unable to rip it perfectly straight or glue the rips in absolute alignment, this tip will probably mislead rather than help.

So when I move on to the rudder (or if I redo the keel), I will rip all pieces to same size and may also rip each one in two and glue them back to back. Also, in order to align them better, I will not glue them all in one go.

By the way, the company I work for has some very useful materials. For gluing I have used EPOXY RESIN-21-T. This is thickened epoxy resin, good also for filleting I suppose. It is 100% solids, so no sagging!

NACA0012 sections

I have prepared the NACA0012 sections for keel and rudder. In the keel drawing, there are 3 sections for which the y-axis position is indicated. Similarly, 4 sections for the rudder. Here are the links to actual size sections:

Keel (no skin)

Rudder (no skin)

I will use these to shape the cores. Hence, I have made a tiny reduction in size to accomodate for a 4 mm skin thickness.

Keel & rudder tips

Here is a very useful set of articles:

Link

(Once page is open click on the floppy disk to download.)

Pricing my options

I am putting down some prices for the different ways of buying the plywood for the benefit of those not based in the US (prices in Euro):

OPTION	KIT	CUT	TRANSPORT	DUTIES	TOTAL
BUY FROM WATERSHED	1,785.00	0.00	576.00	1,000.00	3,361.00
BUY LOCAL / CUT CNC	1,500.00	450.00	0.00	0.00	1,950.00
BUY LOCAL / CUT MANUALLY	1,500.00	196.00	0.00	0.00	1,696.00

Buying the kit from Watershed would really be the best option were it not for the uncertainty of the customs and duties costs ...